EFTA01098747.pdf

D-Panthenol DSM Nutritional Products Unlimited. DSIVI EFTA01098747 D-Panthenol is the most used pro-vitamin in the In hair strengthening products like setting lotions and cosmetics industry. hair sprays the softeners for the polymers can often Because of its physical properties it is easily incorpo- be replaced with D-Panthenol. rated into all normal cosmetic formulations. It pene- trates the skin, hair and nails and generally fulfills all In contrast to the normal softeners D-Panthenol is the expectations of both the producer and consumer. released from the film coating the hair and penetrates the hair slowly. D-Panthenol in skincare The Panthenol which penetrates the hair is replaced with sebum so the hair does not get heavy and the In skin D-Panthenol has the following properties: style lasts longer. • It improves and increases the humidity properties of the skin (moisturising effect); it also makes dry Studies have shown that although single applications skin softer and more elastic of Panthenol have an effect multiple applications give • It has anti-inflammatory effect and soothes better results. irritated skin • It stimulates epithelisation and helps to heal Panthenol is deposited on the hair and also pene- minor wounds (shaving, skin grazes and blisters). trates the hair shaft accumulating in the hair. Weiser and Erlemann (1987) have shown, that even A study with a leave-on conditioner showed that low concentrations of D-Panthenol have a positive Panthenol penetrates through the hair root and is influence on epithelisation. The studies were carried metabolised to Pantothenic Acid (Fig. 2). out using a commercially available W/O-cream with varying concentrations of D-Panthenol. Pantothenic acid µgig hair 111 15.7 The results are shown in Fig. 1. 15 119 12 Wound healing-/Epithelisation factor 1.4 1.33 1.37 1.3 1.29 Placebo 031 2 / 1.2 Pamhenel Leaue.on Commoner 1.1 1.03 1.01 Fig. 2: Penetration of Panthenol into hair 1.00 1.0 Placebo 0.1% 0.3% 0.6% 1.0% 2.5% D-Panthenol ri W/O-Cream The time between the determination of the Fig. 1: Wound treatment with different D-Panthenol Pantothenic Acid content in the control hair and the concentrations test hair was 4 weeks. The effect of D-Panthenol in a 5% formulation The test hair which was treated with Panthenol on epithelisation and wound healing has been pub- contained 9 times more Pantothenic Acid than the lished. In the same study Vitamin E Acetate was also control hair. documented for effectiveness. Because Pantothenic Acid is an important constituent of healthy hair, the work carried out by D-Panthenol in haircare Stuttgen (1960) and Stangl (1952), suggests that Panthenol acts as a nutrient for the hair. D-Panthenol in haircare products will: O Give the hair long lasting moisturisation The influence of concentration on effect was carried O Improve the manageability of the hair out. Shampoos, which contained 0.1%, 0.3% and O Reduce the formation of split ends 0.5% Panthenol, were diluted 1 to 10 with water. O Improve the condition of damaged hair O Thicken the hair The deposition of Panthenol on the hair was 36.4 O Give the hair shine. pg/g hair after one cycle rising to 115.7 pg/g hair after five cycles (Fig. 3). EFTA01098748  Shampoo dilution with water 1:10 It can be shown that the water storage capacity is Deposition pg Oanthenol/g hair long-lasting. That is of particular interest as in the first i 120 115.7 two hours after shampooing the hair is espacially 100 stressed by combing, brushing, blow drying and 71.9 eanthenol- permanent waving. The high water content of the hair 80 concentra - lion helps to prevent damage especially in bleached or 130 se4 . 0.50,a damaged hair. 40 72.5 210 0.343,:t 20 51 °Jo*, D-Panthenol in shampoos, conditioners, hair- and 0 one scalp treatments and hair tonics not only improves cycle the shine, the feel and the flexibility of the hair, it also Dermato, 011.k:rine:J. 1530 protects the hair against mechanical damage and in Fig. 3: Deposition of Panthenol on the hair - influence of general makes the hair more resistant to environmen- concentration tal stresses. Panthenol in nailcare The penetration of Panthenol into the hair showed similar results. After one cycle the penetration was The elasticity of finger nails depends on the water 7.5 pg/g hair and after five cycles 21.5 pg/g hair storage capacity of the nail keratin. (Fig. 4). Shampoo dilution with water 1:10 Panthenol can substantially increase the water stor- Penetration pg eanthenoVg hair age capacity of nails and by this mechanism the flex- 2100 ibility and stability of the nails is improved. 21.50 20.03 Panthenol- In a study, pieces of nail were fixed on an acrylic 10.50 1100 concentra- block and a mechanical pendulum placed to strike lion 10.00 7.50 05015 the nail. 3.90 2.95 5.00 03015 0.15 0 ION, Initially the number of swings necessary to break the 0.00 ------ -- - - one nail was determined. This was used as the control. cycle Demisted. ol Cannuxt.:. 15 30 The nail pieces were soaked in various solutions and Fig. 4: Penetration of Panthenol on the hair - influence of again the number of swings of the pendulum neces- concentration sary to break the nail were counted. The solutions used in the test were water, I% Panthenol in water, I% Panthenol +0.5% Sodium Fig. 5 shows the water storage capacity of the hair as Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) in water and I% Panthenol a result of the deposition and penetration of + 0.5% Triton X-100 in water. Panthenol with concentrations of 0.1%, 0.3% and 0.5% in a shampoo. Time of improved nail flexibility Shampoo dilution with water 1:10 4.5 untreated wale., content mg/g hair 4.0. 4 water 30 — 0.5% PantneneA (1) 3.0 1% Panthenol: (1/ 3 0.3% Panthencl (2) + water 20 0.1% Panthenol (3) 2 - Snampoo basis (4) 1.5 ♦ 0.5% US in water (3/ 0.5 0.5 + 0.5% Triton X-100 10 0.0 n water MUM (4) 0.5% US in water 0 0.5% Talon X-I00 20 60 120 ILO .n wale, ITIWYJt03 Fig. 6: Panthenol improves the flexibility of nails Dennatecn of Connetcut. 1990 Fig. 5: Panthenol in a shampoo improves the water storage It is interesting to note that SLS and Triton X-100 capacity alone showed almost no effect (Fig. 6). EFTA01098749 DSM t The Science In Beauty Many of the leading cosmetics and personal care companies have realized the synergy between vitamitis. sunscreens. omega-6 oils and phosphoSpoi emulsifiers. and are incorporating them into their predicts at the proper levels. utikang renovative delivery systems and technologies to develop functional. high performance cosmetics. In addition to having invented the synthesis of many of these ingredients. at DSM Nutritional Products we have explored the science behind the actMty of these ingredients and developed concepts. addressing specific global and especially Asian trends in hair care. skn care and oral care. Unlimited. Cosmetics Area North America DSM Nutritional Products Inc. 45 Waterview Boulevard Parsippany. NJ 07054-1298 USA Tel. + 1 800 526 0189 Fax + 1 973 257 8420 www.nutraaccess.com Area Asia Pacific DSM Nutritional Products Asia Pacific Pte. Ltd. Shenton Way # 21-00 MCL Building Singapore 079 120 Tel. + 65 6325 6200 Fax + 65 6220 1976 www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com designed by: GAS.Grenzactat-online.de • Printed in Germany Area China DSM China Ocean Tower 22/F No. 550 Yan An East Road Shanghai 200001 P. R. China Tel. + 86 21 3310 4988 Fax + 86 21 6352 5511 www.roche.com.cnivitamin.htm Area Latin America DSM Nutritional Products Latin Amenca Av. Eng. Billings. 1729 - Prod* 9 05321-900 Sao Paulo - SP Bras,' Tel. + 55 11 3719 4601 Fax + 55 11 3719 4684 www.dsmnutrItionalproducts.com Area Europe, Middle East and Africa DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd 05/2005 P.O. Box 3255 CH-4002 Basel Switzerland Tel. + 41 61 687 17 77 Fax + 41 61 687 20 82 www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd The information given in this leaflet is based on our current knoviedge P.O. Box 3255 and experience. and may be used at your discretion and risk. It does CH-4002 Basel not relieve you from carrying out your own precautions and tests. We do not assume liability in connection with you product or its use. Switzerland You must comply with all applicable laws and regulations. and observe al 0wd-party rights. www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com EFTA01098750